Villa, Cottage & Apartment Holidays in South West France
Pays des Vins Region Guide
 
Classic France - go native for a week or two
Pays des Vins is classic France, and more. The home of ancient, characterful villages and market towns such as La Sauve-Majeure, St Macaire and St Emilion, exceptional food and, of course, wine - including the grands crus of the Médoc. A pace of life that makes time to appreciate these things. There’s also rolling countryside, rows of vines as far as the eye can see, startling Baroque châteaux and passionate wine-makers steeped in their art to tell you all about it. Plus recently transformed Bordeaux for modern European city-culture. All that, and magnificent Atlantic beaches, tranquil lakes, even the caves and gorges of the Dordogne are just an easy half- or full- day-trip away. Pays des Vins – it’s all here.

 

Click on Pays des Vins part of map for enlargement and more detail

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Pays des Vins...
» What's it like?
» Brief Introduction to Bordeaux Wines
» 
Things to do
» Places to see
» Our personal highlights
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WHAT'S THE PAYS DES VINS REGION LIKE?
Pays des Vins is a region of contrasting landscapes, from the chalky Médoc plains on the left bank of the Gironde estuary, to the rivers and rolling hills and valleys of Entre-Deux-Mers (literally, ‘between two seas’, which are in fact the rivers Dordogne and Garonne) which merge into the forests of the Landes to the south, the undulating Lot eastwards and towards the ancient Dordogne to the north. The broad, gently meandering rivers set the pace of life here. This is a land of great character, authenticity, peace and quiet. If you like browsing markets, fascinating days out (vineyards, beaches, walks/bike rides, ancient towns), all accompanied by an outstanding range and quality of food and drink this is the place to come!

INTRODUCTION TO BORDEAUX'S WINES
We have outlined Bordeaux's main wine-producing regions and a compiled brief overview of the types of wine each is known for - click here for more details --> Bordeaux wines

More information about the wines of Aquitaine, especially ones from the Bordeaux region, coming soon...

THINGS TO DO

If you like to get active during your holiday, the Pays des Vins offers plenty of possibilities:

For cycling there are numerous tracks which enable you to safely see the countryside. One of the best is a disused railway line running between Sauveterre-de-Guyenne and Bordeaux. At a distance of 55 kms each way, this is not for the beginner although the route is mostly flat. You can pick the trail up about half-way at Créon, where the Créon Station Velos at the station can help with bike hire and equipment. An on-line map of the route is available from the Gironde Tourist Board cycling web page. There are hire shops in the major towns listed opposite.

Horse-riding – there are opportunities for horse-riding throughout the region, including in the Médoc vineyards, through forest at Belin-Beliet south of Bordeaux, and in the Entre-deux-Mers countryside at Sadirac (nr Créon) and Monségur (near Duras). A map of trails around Belin-Beliet is available form the Gironde Tourist Board's walking and horse-riding web page: .

Walking – the Gironde tourist board (link as above) publishes 19 walkers’ routes in the department, including many in the Pays des Vins, covering the areas around St Emilion, Créon, Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, Langon and Cadillac. Many of these routes are also suitable for bikes.

Marathon-running! The annual Marathon du Médoc takes place each year on the second Saturday in September.

Canoeing is available on local rivers - this is a fantastically different way of seeing the landscape, with over 40 miles of circuits nearby, on the River Leyre at Belin-Beliet, the Ciron at Villandraut and the Dordogne close to St Emilion and its tributary, the L’Isle.

Golf – there are 11 courses in the Pays des Vins, most in a cluster in a 30-40 minute drive of Bordeaux, all shown on Touradour's map of Gironde golf courses.

Water sports: waterskiing, windsurfing, boat rides, etc, are available at lakes in and close to the Pays des Vins at Hostens (southern Gironde), Blasimon (nr Creon) and Lac de Clarens nr Casteljaloux.

Spa day - Caudalie Vinotherapie Spa is in the middle of the Château Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards, just south of Bordeaux. The spa offers unique beauty treatments derived from grand cru grapes of the Graves appelation renowned for their anti-ageing and micro-circulation improving properties - in short, visitors apparently come out feeling good! Combine it with a vineyard visit (by appointment) too.

Wine-tasting courses – The Bordeaux Ecole du Vin offers 2 hour, 1 day and weekend courses on discovering and testing the wines of the region.

Cookery classes – learn how to cook like a Michelin-starred Aquitaine chef! Several establishments offer courses in the region, including: Les Sources de Caudalie about 25 kms south west of Bordeaux, and Chapon Fin cookery school in Bordeaux itself.

PHOTO GALLERY
 
Bordeaux vines
St Emilion


Medoc red wine (Chateau Maucaillou)


Grand Theatre, Bordeaux


Market day, Castillon-la-Bataille


Canoeing on the Dordogne river




PAYS DES VINS
OUR HIGHLIGHTS
We've picked out our own favourite experiences in the Pays des Vins:
Private tour of a small 'artisanal' wine producer - many are expert at conveying the art and passion that goes into making a bottle of good Bordeaux wine, after all it's their life!
A day in Bordeaux, strolling the Quartier St Pierre - along ancient narrow pedestrianed streets you happen unexpectedly on beautiful squares, stunning churches, bijou shops - a delight
Browsing the arcades and stalls on a Pays des Vins market day, followed by lunch in one the busy cafes on the square - French life at its most animated and fun
Cycle ride from Créon along the dis-used railway to explore one of the nearby villages (La Sauve Majeure is recommended), a cool beer or two, and back again
Day out driving up the Route des Vins in the morning, crossing the Gironde on the Larmarque-to-Blaye ferry, lunch and stroll around this historic town, then home again through the Libournais - an easy journey of delightful contrasts

USEFUL LINKS

Guide to the Pays des Vins

OFFICES DE TOURISME:

Gironde tourist board

Cadillac

Creon

Duras

Entre-Deux-Mers (covers La Reole, Sauveterre-de-Guyenne, Monsegur)

Libourne

Pauillac

Sauternes, Graves, Langon

St Emilion

Ste Foy-la-Grande


SELECTED ACTIVITES

Introduction to the Wines of Bordeaux

Major châteaux:
- Cos d'Estournel
- Lafite-Rothschild
- Latour
- Margaux
-
Mouton-Rothschild
- Petrus
- d'Yquem

List of wine producing properties offering tastings/tours

Learn about wine-tasting

Cookery classes in Bordeaux

Spa treatments nr Bordeaux

Cycle hire:
- Creon Cycle Station

Horse-riding
- Centre Equestre Volcelest, Belin-Beliet

Walking, cycling, horse-riding trails in the Pays des Vins

Golf courses in the Bordeaux region

Lakes, nature:

- Domaine de Blasimon, nr Creon
- Hostens, nr Langon
- Lac de Clarens, nr Casteljaloux


Cafes and restaurants offering local specialities

Festivals & events in the Pays des Vins - coming soon

PLACES & SIGHTS TO SEE

As well as offering a wealth of places of interest of its own, the Pays des Vins is also located such that highlights of the Aquitaine coast and even the Dordogne are within a 60-90 minute drive.

Starting within the region itself:

Markets
– markets are a must-do of any trip to this region, for the quality and colour of the produce, and the lively atmosphere. To the east of the region are the markets of Bergerac, Ste-Foy-la-Grande. Eymet, Miramont, Duras & Monsegur. To the west there’s Cadillac, Créon, La Réole, Libourne, Langon, plus Bazas, Salles and St Symphorien to the south. Owners know the days!

Châteaux & vineyard visits – where to start?! If tasting & learning is your aim, to help over 650 wine-making properties are members of the ‘Vignobles & Chaisin Bordeaux’, a scheme under which producers offer guided tours and assisted tastings. Many of our owners in the region know local wine-makers (one or two are winemakers themselves) who will give you a highly personalised tour of their vineyards and cellars – it adds another dimension to a wine’s taste when you’ve visited the terroir and met the viticulteur who bottled it!

If you simply want to gaze at the more sumptuous châteaux, a good option is the route des vins in the Médoc, the D2 road just south of Lesparre-Médoc to Macau, which takes you past the most famous and prestigious properties: Château Cos d’Estournel, Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Latour and Château Margaux.

Many of the major châteaux only offer tours and tastings by appointment, simply because they are very popular! (Follow the links above for contatc details.) However there are a few which are open to casual visitors, for example: Château Siran, Labarde (Médoc); Château de Rouillac (Pessac-Léognan); Château de Malle (Sauternes, highly recommended - afternoons only without appointment); Château Le Luc Regula (Entre-Deux-Mers); Château de Roques (St Emilion).

Historic villages and towns – in the Pays des Vins you are spoilt for choice. St Emilion is the one most people head for, but go early in the day, or out of season, to avoid the crowds. Equally historic, but smaller, are Sauve-Majeure and La Réole, definitely worth a visit. Many other of the region’s towns boast character and history – Libourne, Créon, Duras, Sainte Foy-la-Grande are all very enjoyable places to lunch and then stroll afterwards.

Literary-minded visitors might enjoy visiting writers’ châteaux, including those of Montaigne (Chateau de la Brede, approx. 20 kms south of Bordeaux) and Francois Mauriac's country house at Saint Maixant (another 20 kms south-west from La Brede)

City culture in Bordeaux – these days Bordeaux is a transformed city: smartened-up buildings, extensively pedestrianised and a 21st century tram system, the combination of historic and new makes Bordeaux the epitome of a modern European city. The city centre around the Grand Théatre and Cours de l’Intendance is a marvel – it’s not difficult to appreciate the wealth and vision of the city’s planners of its hey-days, over two centuries ago. Extensive shopping on the Rue Ste Catherine, a vast choice of cafés and restaurants, the stunning Cathédrale St-André, make Bordeaux an excellent day or two out. The Bordeaux tourist office by the Grand Théatre offers walking guides.

We can also the following trips slightly further afield:

Days by the lake. There are inland lakes at Hostens (southern Gironde), Lac de Clarens nr Casteljaloux (south-west part of the Pays des Vins, on the Lot-et-Garonne border) and at Blasimon (Entre-Deux-Mers) All have sandy beaches, and bathing is usually supervised in July & August. With a picnic it’s a very pleasant and relaxing day.

Days at the seaside. The endless expanses of golden sand and rolling waves characteristic of the Atlantic coast's beaches - Le Grand Crohot, about 10 km due west of Lège-Cap Ferret is particularly recommended, you can always find a quiet spot to yourself. Alternatively, there's the very family-friendly resorts of Lacanau-Océan and Arcachon. Or try the oyster-farming villages and pine-and-sand-dune landscape of La Presqu'Ile de Cap Ferret, a very different world from the Pays des Vins.

Explore the Dordogne – to the north and east is the rich gastronomic and cultural heritage of the Dordogne - its truffles, many caves (eg at Sarlat, Lascaux, Font-de-Gaume) and fortified towns are within an hour and a half's drive.

EATING AND DRINKING

If you enjoy good food and wine, Pays des Vins is the right place for you! Here’s a selection of local dishes to whet your appetite:

Starters – oysters (huîtres) from the Bay of Arcachon, served with little sausages (crépinettes), fresh bread and salted butter. Or Blaye asparagus (asperges) from the right bank of the Gironde, served plain or with a vinaigrette dressing. Or why not foie gras, like the rest of the south-west a staple of the Psys des Vins diet, with a glass of fine Sauternes?

Fish course – we can suggest white shrimps (crevettes) from the Gironde estuary, seasoned with aniseed; or Bordeaux-style lamprey (lamproie à la Bordelaise), a classic of Pay des Vins cooking, served in a red wine and leek sauce. Or a simple sea-bass (bar or loup), landed in Arcachon, grilled and served with a shallot sauce? How about Médoc king prawns (langoustines) – almost half of France’s production comes from here.

Main courses – many simple, hearty choices based on exceptional quality of produce: oven-roasted Pauillac lamb (agneau de Pauillac), a meat as tender as they come; or the equally tender boeuf de Bazas, served with parsley and garlic. Bordeaux-style rib steak (entrecôte à la Bordelaise) cooked on vine shoots and served with a red-wine and shallot sauce. Wood pigeon (palombe), a prized hunting produce in the Gironde (you might spot the shooting platforms – palombiers – on woodland walks), cooked with salami.

Still hungry? We’ve not finished yet! Our favourite desserts are: cannelés, delicious small bordelaise cakes, crunchy and dark on the outside, soft and pale in the centre with a hint of rum. Impossible to eat just one at a sitting! Or St Emilion macarons, fondant cakes made of almonds, sugar and egg-white. And not forgetting sabayon au Sauternes, a cream mousse made of egg yolk, sugar and flavoured with Sauternes wine.

This is just a selection – local markets are famed for their huge range of produce: mushrooms, poultry (especially capons), Jerusalem artichokes, rare potatoes, radishes, elderberries… an endless list of local specialities – and we’ve not even started on the Périgord truffles, Agen prunes, etc, from neighbouring departments.

An innovative scheme is also run in Aquitaine in association with 74 restauranteurs and 23 café owners, called Assiette et Café de Pays. Establishments with this label, many of them in the Pays des Vins, are committed to enabling visitors to sample local specialities and explain their origins, all in a convivial atmosphere. A wonderful way of making French life more accessible! A pdf with details and participating establishments is available from Tourism Aquitaine (click to download).

Bon appétit!

 
click for larger version Bordeaux vines - click to enlarge St Emilion clocher - click to enlarge Bordeaux's Grand Theatre - click to enlarge Market day, Castillon-la-Bataille - click to enlarge Canoeing on the Dordogne river - click to enlarge